I got my hubs finished finally. I removed the races because one was nicked and I thought it would be best to just redo both sides. It cost more than I had planned but it is peace of mind. After removing the races I took a flap disk and wire wheel to the hubs. They were looking rough. Here they are after the rust removal...
I primed and painted them with Rustoleum Professional Aluminum paint that I have been using for the frame and other parts. The paint won't last for ever but what the heck. It will stop them from rusting into oblivion. I installed the new races, packed the bearings, installed the grease seals and mounted the hubs. I will try to post the numbers and sources of the races, bearings, and seals at some point. This might help someone I guess. Here is my favorite picture...before and after...
I received my grease seals and outer bearings and races in the mail just yesterday. Unfortunately, the bearing supplier didn't ship me two sets like I ordered so I was only able to assemble and mount one side.
I also stripped and wire wheeled the three wheels. I primed and painted them with Rustoleum Metallic Silver. That is what I had on hand from other projects...
They don't look to bad. I think they will get repainted at some point. Probably the Cloudburst color we have picked for the body of the trailer. It may not matter too much as I plan on running full caps. I am still looking for some vintage caps that won't kill me budget wise. We are now $268 over budget so finding nice but affordable caps are is a challenge.
I also have been banging out the entrance door stuff. I assembled the Bargman L-66. If you are taking your lock apart remember to grease the parts. I put it 80% together before I realized I hadn't greased anything. I don't think it looks that bad...
I still think these things are junk. I don't like them at all especially for the money they command. If you are repairing and cleaning your lock here is the exploded view to help you out...
I finally finished the interior door panel. It didn't go that smooth. I did two coats with the shellac thinned with denatured alcohol on the advice of a VSTF member. It was looking a little on the light side color wise and I got cocky and applied the third coat full strength. That did not go well. I had to sand all of the finish off and start over. IT SUCKED! I did it all again but stuck with the thinned shellac this time. I think it looks pretty good...
You can see that I have dry fit the door lock. It took a ton of working on this. My "guide plate" broke in my hands so I had to fabricate a fix. Did I mention these locks suck? Here is the plate I had to make...
It seems to work. I spent WAY too much time making it and making it fit.
I got rid of the stupid hasp the PO put on and got us a RV door lock from VTS. Here is the dry fit of the deadbolt. I think it seems to work pretty well and looks a lot better than a hasp...
Sorry the picture is crappy. It was getting late. I stopped there because the shelter is about 15 feet from the neighbors bedroom window and I don't want to be a crappy neighbor and be hammering and drilling at 10 at night. Stay tuned for more...
5 comments:
Hi, I am wondering if you have any more pictures of this door in progress. I recently got a 69 Shasta 1400 and at some point I will want to fix the wavy door. I did a door on an 59 Aljo and I suppose I could do this one. Enjoyed reading all your posts!
No I don,t have anymore progress pictures, sorry. I was struggling to get it done in the time frame so I didn't keep the camera handy. Mine is made with 1x2s on the length and 1x4s for the "styles". Using this sort of stock gave me thickness issues so I had to Laminate the frame with some scrap 1/4 ply. The inside face panel is of course just 1/4" ply.
Hope this helps a bit more.
Brian
Hi. I was hoping for some insight in your bearing seals. I've been to 2 trailer places, they both want to replace axle for $300.00+. Each says they can't get those seals. Mines a 1960, and the numbers on the race are 240-144-6 Trostel. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ta
Hello, I came across your blog because I was thinking of using the same deadbolt on my Aristocrat Lo Liner. Did you already have a hole in the door from a previous deadbolt? Mine currently does not, but I do have the mult-cutting tool from Harbor Freight that I think will cut it. Any tips would be great.
Thanks!
-Rebecca
Sorry Rebecca. I didn't see your post right away. No. Our trailer did not have a deadbolt before. I used a hole saw to make the hole. I don't remember what size but it was smaller than what the instructions called for. It fit fine with smaller hole and will give more surface area on the outside to apply sealant. Something that is VERY important. You can then use drill bits and a chisel to make a hole for the bolt. Hope this helps a bit.
Brian
1964 Shasta Louise
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